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I first met Tonya Blazio-Licorish in 2021 when she reached out to interview me for an article she was writing for Women’s Wear Daily (WWD). That initial conversation sparked an ongoing dialogue about the fashion industry, particularly Black creatives' significant yet often overlooked contributions. Over the years, our discussions expanded across multiple platforms—text messages, LinkedIn exchanges, emails, and Zoom meetings—always diving deeper into the intersection of fashion, culture, and history.
en Tonya told me about her upcoming book, Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence, and Culture, with Tara Donaldson (who I also met via an interview for an article), I immediately knew we needed to collaborate. Our shared passion for documenting and celebrating the impact of Black fashion pioneers led us to launch a four-part podcast series exploring the themes of her book. This series is not just about fashion history—it is about reclaiming narratives, recognizing innovations, and highlighting the resilience of Black creatives who shaped and continue to shape the industry.
Our first podcast episode set the foundation for these discussions. We explored Tonya’s journey in fashion, her role as an archives editor, and the significance of archival storytelling in preserving cultural narratives. What struck me most about our conversation was her ability to connect history with contemporary fashion movements. She emphasized how understanding the past is essential to contextualizing present trends and shaping the industry's future.
A Journey Through Fashion and History
Tonya’s fascination with fashion stemmed from her early years in New Orleans, a city deeply embedded with cultural and stylistic influences. Her mother played a pivotal role in shaping her understanding of fashion, teaching her how to shop with a discerning eye—focusing on quality over quantity and appreciating the craftsmanship behind each piece. Her first major fashion purchase was a WillieWear outfit by Willi Smith, an experience that would later inform her understanding of Black designers’ contributions to the industry.
As she transitioned into adulthood, Tonya moved to New York in the 1990s—when the fashion landscape was undergoing a seismic shift. She immersed herself in the industry, working in retail, attending fashion shows, and observing trends firsthand. Over time, her interests expanded beyond design and retail into research and archives. This curiosity led her to pursue a master’s degree at NYU, where she delved into the depths of fashion history. Her journey eventually brought her to WWD, where she played a crucial role in re-inventorying and documenting its vast archives.

The Importance of Archival Storytelling
One of the most powerful takeaways from our discussion was Tonya’s perspective on archival research. She described archives as time capsules that reveal the layers of fashion’s evolution, offering insights into the business, trends, and social movements that shaped the industry. She underscored the importance of respecting archival materials—allowing the documents to tell their own stories rather than imposing contemporary perspectives onto them.
Tonya’s work at WWD has given her unparalleled access to a treasure trove of fashion history. She has uncovered narratives of Black designers, models, and creatives who have been pivotal to the industry’s development but often remain unrecognized in mainstream fashion history. Her book, co-authored with Tara Donaldson, compiles these stories, celebrating a century of Black contributions to fashion.
Uncovering Hidden Legacies
During our conversation, Tonya highlighted several key moments in Black fashion history documented in WWD. One particularly striking example was the emergence of Black labor unions advocating for fair wages in the early 1900s. She spoke about how labor movements were crucial in shaping opportunities for Black women in fashion, ensuring their skills and talents were acknowledged and compensated fairly.
She also shared stories about early Black modeling agencies, Black-owned retail establishments, and fashion organizations like NAFAD (National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers). NAFAD, founded in the mid-20th century, provided a platform for Black designers and professionals to network, showcase their work, and build sustainable careers in an industry that often excluded them. The fact that NAFAD still holds its charter today is a testament to its lasting impact.
One of Tonya's most fascinating insights was about Josephine Baker’s influence on fashion. While Baker is often remembered for her performances and activism, WWD documented how she directly influenced fashion trends. From inspiring hosiery shades like "Creole Brown" to setting trends with her signature turbans and metallic nail polish, Baker was a fashion innovator in her own right. Tonya drew a compelling connection between Baker’s impact and contemporary figures like Rihanna, noting how Black women have consistently shaped global fashion trends.
The Role of Women’s Wear Daily in Documenting Black Fashion History
WWD has long been regarded as the "fashion bible," providing daily insights into the fashion business. However, Tonya’s work reveals that its archives also contain a rich and complex history of Black contributions to the industry. She spoke about how WWD reported on Black fashion shows as early as the 1920s, covered Harlem’s vibrant fashion scene during the Harlem Renaissance, and documented Black designers’ struggles and triumphs throughout the decades.
One of Tonya's most interesting discoveries was how WWD advised fashion executives to pay attention to Black consumers as early as 1943. The publication acknowledged that Black shoppers had significant buying power and that brands needed to shift their advertising strategies to be more inclusive. This historical perspective underscores the long-standing influence of Black consumers on the fashion industry—a conversation that continues today.

Looking Ahead: Continuing the Conversation
As we wrapped up our discussion, I reflected on the importance of bringing these stories to light. Fashion history, as traditionally taught, often omits the vital contributions of Black creatives. Through Tonya’s meticulous research and storytelling, these narratives are being rightfully restored to the canon of fashion history.
This podcast series is just the beginning of a broader conversation. Tonya and I are exploring additional programming to further highlight Black innovators in fashion and ensure that their legacies are not only remembered but celebrated.
I encourage everyone to read Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence, and Culture. Tonya and Tara have created a remarkable book that offers a deeper understanding of the Black creatives who have shaped fashion’s past, present, and future.
As I continue this journey of uncovering and amplifying innovation in various industries, I am grateful for such conversations. They remind me why storytelling matters—preserving and sharing history is crucial for inspiring future generations of designers, historians, and changemakers.
Stay tuned for the next episode of our podcast series, where we will continue to explore the profound impact of Black creatives in fashion. And as always, keep innovating, questioning, and pushing the boundaries of what is possible.
Keep innovating!
Eulanda
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